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By Andrea Swayne
San Clemente-based surfer Kirra Pinkerton (right) posted this photo of her and brother Bryce to Instagram Monday, upon returning from a family surf trip to the central coast. The photo appeared with the following quote:
“Super fun time up north!!! Nice family hikes and really fun surf!!! Bummed there was a shark attack when I was in the water so I had to get out.”
Just like that. No drama. She’s just bummed the men in gray suits cut into her surf session. You definitely have to love the groms and their infectious, steadfast stoke.
We caught up with Kirra and Bryce’s dad Jim to find out more. He said the family was surfing at Montaña de Oro State Park about a mile away from where a surfer was bitten by a juvenile great white at Sand Spit on Sunday.
“We could see that something was going on down the beach,” Jim said. “There were sirens and a commotion. Then a lifeguard boat showed up near where we were surfing, warned everyone about the shark and advised us to get out of the water.”
The Pinkertons, not quite ready to end their surf trip, headed a bit farther north to catch a few more waves in Cayucos and San Simeon before heading home on Monday.
The surfer who had the run in with the shark, Kevin Swanson, 50, of Morro Bay, was taken to a nearby hospital with injuries to his leg which were not life-threatening and was released on Monday morning. When asked Monday night how he is doing, Swanson said, “Better and home. Looking for a full recovery.”
The Pinkertons, along with the global surf community—as evidenced by the outpouring of concern on social media—are relieved to hear Swanson is going to be OK.