Big Wave Surfer Conquers Cortes
By Andrea Swayne
Bravery. That, along with massive amounts of training and skill, is a major component in the constitution of a big wave surfer. To take on towering slabs of water in the open ocean atop nothing but a piece of foam and fiberglass is bold to say the least. But to paddle back out after surviving a near-drowning is courageous, for both the physical act and conquering of fear.
In December 2012, 100 miles off the Southern California coast at Cortes Bank, professional big wave surfer Greg Long was pulled from the water unconscious after a three-wave hold down in 30-foot surf nearly cost him his life. He was airlifted—battered, bruised and traumatized—to San Diego where he spent a day in the hospital before returning home to San Clemente.
“Three rescue skis operated by D.K. Walsh, Jon Walla and Frank Quirarte were tracking me following the initial wipeout. I was quickly located, floating face down alongside my surfboard … they pulled me onto the rescue sled,” Long said, a few days after the incident. “I began regaining consciousness during the ride back to the support boat. Humbly, I express my deepest gratitude to the team of rescuers and fellow surfers whose training and precise response contributed to saving my life.”
One of the most well-trained and highly decorated big wave surfers in the world—from numerous Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards to winning the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau in 2009—Long embarked on a year of surfing and soul searching. At times he questioned whether he even wanted to continue his dream career. He got right back out there chasing giants all over the world—except Cortes Bank.
His most recent competition was the Body Glove Mavericks Invitational at Half Moon Bay on Jan. 24. Grant “Twiggy” Baker of South Africa took home the win. Long made the finals and is ranked No. 6 of 54 ranked surfers in the XPRESHON Big Wave World Tour.
“That week was one of the most hectic of my life. While getting ready and focusing for the Mavericks event I was also logistically and mentally preparing to go back to Cortes Bank,” Long said. “I was exhausted before the contest even began so I was happy just to make the finals … I couldn’t have been more stoked to see Twiggy win. He’s one of my best friends, the most focused and determined big wave surfer in the world right now and deserved to win more than anybody that day.”
The next day Long returned to Cortes Bank, ready for what he has since deemed the most memorable session of his life.
“I got to surf alone for eight hours in the most immaculate of conditions,” Long said. “It wasn’t the biggest day ever by a long shot, but paddling back out there was one of the greatest mental challenges I have ever faced and an experience I will remember forever.”
Footage from Long’s return to Cortes Bank will be included in a three-episode “World of X Games” series following big wave surfers Long, Baker, Mark Healey, Shane Dorian and Ryan Hipwood on a six-month-long worldwide search for big waves. The series, titled “Hell and High Water” by TAUBLIEB Films and ESPN, is set to air in November on ABC.
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